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Hispanic Pitmasters carrying Texas’ BBQ evolution

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Andrew Soto Pit master
Posted at 9:28 PM, Sep 25, 2023
and last updated 2023-09-26 10:25:59-04

SINTON, Texas — One of the best BBQ joints in the state of Texas - Butter's BBQ - has its roots in the small town of Sinton and despite its modest beginnings, they serve up the works.

“Ten years from now, we aren’t going to be calling anything Tex-Mex BBQ, it’s just Texas BBQ because that is how much it’s going to overtake and become a part of Texas BBQ culture,” BBQ Editor for Texas Monthly Daniel Vaugh said.

Vaughn selecting Butter’s BBQ as Texas Monthly’s Top 50 in 2021. The restaurant is owned by Mathis native and resident Andrew Soto.

“I liquidated everything that I had and we built a smoker,” Soto said.

Soto started selling brisket per orders on the weekends, before deciding to quit his day job and dive into BBQ full time in 2017.

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Andrew Soto, pitmaster working during lunch hour on Friday

Soto recalls his first experience with BBQ when he was just seven years old. Soto’s father had a catering business and would smoke meats while he slept, making it Andrew’s responsibility to check the pits.

“It was my responsibility to check the pits and make sure the fires were still going,” Soto said.

He is now one of the several Hispanic pitmasters who are carrying a BBQ evolution.

“Rather than being the hired help – they are the front of house. They are the owners,” Vaughn said.

According to Vaughn, Texas is in the midst of a huge transformation about what Texas BBQ is based on.

Tex-Mex, Hispanic or South Texas influence in BBQ joints are now starting to pop up more often. For example, people will see popular items on their menu like elote, barbacoa, tortillas and salsa - all of which Soto serves in his restaurant.

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Butter's BBQ plate

“Being able to do that for my heritage, but for the BBQ community – its great it’s a blessing,” Soto said.

Butters BBQ is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday until they sell out.

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